Kampot, Cambodia

Kampot has become our little haven reset from city life. A tranquil river escape about three hours from Phnom Penh. We absolutely love the laid-back vibe, nature, and Cambodian countryside. 

Fast Five Favourites:

• La Plantation Kampot Pepper Farm- A bumpy and beautiful drive in the countryside and you have arrived. They have regular, free walking tours of the farm and we enjoyed a yummy banana shake and lunch in the restaurant.
• Chilling by the river- We stayed at Sabay Beach and it ticks all the boxes for our nature-loving fam. A gorgeous view, lots of places to relax, kind and friendly staff, zero city noise, greenery and paths for the kids to explore (with chickens!), plenty of organized activities if you feel like it, kayaks, a clean and functioning family room with AC, and fairy lights. The rooms are very reasonably priced from $24-$60 which we consider a bargain for what is on offer. If we were child-free, we would have loved to try one of their tree houses. 
• A morning or afternoon in Kep. We love driving in the countryside and this ride is about 35mins in a tuk-tuk. We enjoyed a play and swim at Kep Beach before heading to the crab and seafood market and checking out the restaurants along the water. Holy Crab impressed our whole family with yummy food and a stunner sunset.
• Kampot town-The town has a real charm to it and we like just wandering the roads and taking a look around. Take a break at the Kampot Pie and Ice Cream Palace for some treats.
• Sunset River Cruise- We took some dinner and hired a private boat to take us along the river for an hour at sunset. We loved people watching from this point of view. We could see children playing soccer, families cooking dinner around the fire, other boats on the river, and houses on stilts. There was so much to admire and talk about with our own kiddos.  

Tips:

• To be honest, we have limited tips for you as our trips have always been about chilling! But we did get excited by some of the tours on offer at Sabay Beach. They have a Countryside tour and a Bokor Hill station tour. Both look great. You can also take a boat directly to Nibi Spa for a day of pampering which we definitely plan to do next time. 
• Rabbit Island is about 30mins south of Kep by local boat. This is on our list for next time too!
• We have also stayed at Rikitikitavi in Kampot. Great place if you want to be right in the middle of town. It also has good food you can count on which can be hit-and-miss while traveling in Cambodia. 
• Nom Tom Bakery has delicious savoury and sweet treats and we also had a yummy lunch at Aroma House.
  
  

Five things the photos do not show:

• We had a family kayaking fail on our first trip to Kampot. Huds was trying to stand up and walk around mid-river and we had to abort mission. We haven't braved it as a family again since and Riki and I choose to take turns with Lilah instead. This day did have a happy ending as the kids loved playing in the water playground that was at the hotel of the place we were hiring kayaks from.
• We paid $5 per scoop of ice cream at Holy Crab for the kids.
• There are lots of mosquitos in the countryside so make sure you have your deet.
• The true beauty of driving through the countryside. We recommend a remorque if you want to take it all in. The cows, the joyful children, the red dirt roads. Truly stunning. 
• The kindness of Khmer people. We love Cambodia!!

Living in Phnom Penh

Wow, it has been a long time between posts! Between the c word making travel non-existent and adding two new babes to our tribe, we have been pretty busy with life in general. We were looking through our blog and there are so many places we have not documented yet. We will try and catch up one day. But for now, here is a list of our fave things that we have discovered in our new home. We were so lucky to have friends who had been living here for 6 months before we arrived so many of these recommendations are tried and loved by them too, thanks Parkin fam. We absolutely LOVE living in Phnom Penh. While it has been our most adventurous transition, this city is very easy to live in. From banking to booking a tuk-tuk to having anything and everything delivered to your doorstep, they have you covered. Not to mention the beautiful people! As we have only recently moved here, we will add to this post as we discover more. There is much to discover!

Fast Five Favourites:

• Cafe culture-There are so many cute cafes and rooftop bars. It helps that there are many kid-friendly ones too. You can scroll down to see our faves. Our favourite rooftop pool in Phnom Penh is at The Peninsula. You can pay $10 per adult and $5 per child to go and relax there on a Saturday. They have a children's pool and a playroom too. It is definitely worth it!
• Riding in a tuk-tuk. If you are visiting, the tuk-tuk will likely be your main mode of transport. Everywhere we go is an excursion in itself. The sights, the smells. You will love exploring in a tuk-tuk. Don't forget to ask your driver to pull over and get a fresh coconut to drink (usually around 1USD)
• Shopping! The markets, the little boutique stores, the malls. Phnom Penh has it all. We have been pleasantly surprised, there is not a lot that you cannot find here. We are also so happy to eat tropical fruit year-round!
• Self-care. Never have we experienced the wonderful balance of making time for ourselves in any place we have lived. Not only are massages and head spas and pedicures extremely affordable, but they are also so good too! Like the cafes, some of the spas are beautiful. The attention to detail in the spaces is half the fun of visiting.
• The gorgeous, gorgeous people. We feel so lucky to live here and that our children get to learn and grow and interact with the locals. They make this country truly special.

Tips:

• The currencies are USD or Cambodian riel. They are VERY particular with USD and will inspect it closely. If it is ripped or looks old, many places will not accept it.
• We recommend downloading the Grab app so that you can get a ride for the same price as the locals. We have found that the price is considerably cheaper with this app. And you can use it in English and type exactly where you want to go which helps with the language barrier.
• You can have pretty much any restaurant delivered to your door. We use Nham24 and Food Panda for home delivery. Our faves are The Vine 244, Backyard Cafe, Ninja Japanese Dining, Papa John's, Mexicano, Itacate, Hummus House, and Cafe Wine o'clock. If you are lucky enough to get a date night or are traveling without kids, Pepe Bistro was recommended to us by friends and the food is absolutely delicious! Our friends also took us to the rooftop bar at the top of the Baitong Hotel and it has the coolest vibes.
• There are many grocery stores but we like different ones for different things. We haven't really found a one-stop shop. Super Duper and Thai Hoyt are the main ex-pat supermarkets. Cambodian Super Store is like a mini Costco. The supermarket in Aeon Mall is probably our most regular where we like the fresh produce the best (aside from the markets). Delishop is an online grocery store. You can also have groceries delivered through your food apps.
• Intercare is an international medical center with very good doctors. Our care is covered through our insurance so I am not sure of the costs. It is likely quite expensive but if you need it, you need it. Our friends had a good experience with Khema during an accident/emergency. Euro Dental clinic has a fantastic dentist, Dr. Anna who we visited with Lilah. The cost was reasonable too, much cheaper than New Zealand and we easily booked an appointment through Facebook messenger.
• If you love baskets, there are so many cute little shops you can visit. Green Souvenirs is my absolute fave. I love how you can message most of them on Facebook too and many are able to communicate with you in English.
• I like Central Market as it is easy to get around and I have been there the most times now so I know where the things that I like are. Russian Market is also popular. You can buy fabrics from the markets and have anything you want to be made! Scarlet Fiber has made a few dresses for me and the quality is great. The turnaround time was two weeks. Dom Lei is recommended by some of my friends.
• Riki and I took turns visiting the Genocide Museum and the Choeung killing fields on separate days as we didn't want to take our kids. This is a huge day and really upsetting so you need to mentally prepare and take it easy afterward. Actually, we both fell asleep when returning home. The whole day was incredibly chilling and we found it to be even more shocking than the Auschwitz concentration camp. The school really is as it was. At the museum, there are still two survivors who are there each day. The one we met was in his 90s and is selling his book there, it is all so recent. You need cash to visit both places. The fields were $3 and the museum was $10. If you are from NZ, Brother Number One is a documentary we discovered after our visit. Fellow Kiwi, Rob Hamill tells the story of his brother Kerry's death at the hands of the Khmer Rouge. 
• We have only lived here for the rainy season so far but in our experience, the rain has only poured for short bursts in the day, and for the most part, it is hot and humid, but not very wet. Apparently, the best time to visit is between October and May.
• Our favourite spa for massages and facials is Bliss Spa. Bodia has given our fave foot massage so far and the chairs were super comfy. There are some cute shops in and around Bliss Spa and the cafe next door The Barista has yummy coffee/cocktails and food. Nail Salon has very cheap mani/pedis and hair washes/blow dries. If you are after the ultimate relaxation head spa experience where your head is cleaned and massaged for 40 minutes then you cannot miss out on TK Tokyo Hair. I am ashamed to admit that I go almost weekly!
• Weekend trips to Kampot and Kep are very doable from Phnom Penh. The countryside cannot be missed when visiting Cambodia. 
• Just be vigilant with your belongings. We have friends who have had experiences with mugging. Keep them close and it pays not to use your phone in sight when in the tuk-tuk.
• You must do a nighttime river cruise. We hired the entire boat for $80 and we went at sunset for two hours. You can take your own food and drinks on and enjoy. We used Crocodile Cruise and would totally recommend it. 
• Take a stroll along the boardwalk riverside and soak in the atmosphere while the kids chase the birds.
• Wat Phnom is a beautiful place to visit and relax.
• We love this blog with top things to do here and also volunteer opportunities. The Royal Palace isn't open at the moment but we are looking forward to visiting when it reopens. Silk Island is also on our list. 

Kids on Board:

• Phnom Penh caters to children extremely well! The kid's cafes here are on another level, even to Korea which we never thought we would get to see again. You can relax and enjoy food and drinks while the kids play. Our favourite places to eat with kids are Farm to Table, Play Cafe, and Coconut Park.
• You can find everything you need for babies or kids here so you don't need to stock up on your nappies or anything like that. If your child has just started solids and is having packet food then they are pretty expensive from what we have seen. You might want to bring a stash of those but it is not a must.
• A carrier would be best for small babes here. The roads are super busy and strollers are not very practical for the tuk-tuks.
• There are many hotels with rooftop pools that you can stay in. A pool at our accommodation is important for us after being in the heat with the kids.
• Doozi and Funderland guarantee a fun time indoors if you want to escape the heat.
• The Factory has a large area where you can scooter or skate. There is also a trampoline playground inside that the kids love. It is so hot though with limited airflow or aircon. The kids don't mind but it wasn't that fun for me.
• You can search almost anything as a parent on Phnom Penh mamas and you will likely find it. If you can't find what you are looking for, simply ask and you will be provided with some goodness. This is one of the best pages I have been a part of in a foreign country.

Five things the photos do not show:

• As we shared, the transition has been one of our most challenging moves yet. There have been many contributing factors. We caught covid on the way so on top of being run down from our packing and move was a lot. Travel with three kids, we are now outnumbered. Sonita also started back at work after 18 months at home. 
• The living expenses have surprised us. We were expecting things to be a bit cheaper and we are sure that you can definitely find cheaper than what we are getting if you are willing to experiment more with where you eat. We eat at mostly Western places so the costs are higher (still considerably less than in NZ). Our first power bill was also $350USD for the month. Running 3 aircons 24/7 probably contributed to that ha!
• There is so much rubbish everywhere which is hard to see. Recycling is pretty much non-existent and there is plastic on EVERYTHING.
• We saw our first rat last week and it was bigger than a cat!
• There isn't really a tipping culture in Cambodia but anything you can spare is so appreciated.

Siem Reap, Cambodia

We spent 4 wonderful nights in Siem Reap. We fell in love with the culture, the people, the history, and much more. We know we will return in the future.

Fast Five Favourites:

• Our accomodation- Baby Elephant Boutique Hotel. We seriously loved every aspect of this charming place. It is small, but popular. And with good reason! We stayed in the Premier Double room and it was gorgeous. Just outside our door, was a beautiful covered balcony-the perfect spot for morning yoga. The hotel is also extremely friendly on the budget, with rooms ranging from as little as $30-$100 a night.
• Phare, the Cambodian circus- This is not your average circus. It has a great vibe and atmosphere and we love how it is transforming the lives of many Cambodian youth. It tells a story and kept Lilah engaged for the entire show.
• Angkor Wat- Seeing the temples was our main reason for coming and they were incredible. Lilah has always enjoyed temples and called them tree houses so it was special to bring her to these magnificent beauties.
• Bayon- This was our favourite. It was amazing to see all of the faces in many directions. 
• Ta Nei- We asked our driver to take us to a temple with not many people around and we arrived here first thing in the morning and there was no one in sight. It really added to the experience being the only people here. 

Tips:

• We visited Pub Street to eat lunch most days, mainly for convenience as it was close to our hotel so we would stop in after a morning at the temples. There was a nice massage place that was extremely child-friendly called Temple on one of the side streets. They gave Lilah a manicure while we had a foot massage and played with her too.
• We seen the 4 main temples over 2 days, mostly as it was easier with Lilah to spend a half day at the temples instead of a long full day. She enjoyed this much more. Although you can easily see 4 or more temples in a full day and save on a multi day ticket. 
• Angkor Wat- It was nice to experience the sunrise at the beginning of the day and it's beautiful to see. However, we think that we would have enjoyed the visit to Angkor Wat without making the sunrise and it didn't feel like a must do to us. It was just as magnificent at 10am! You also need to check the weather. We had unusual weather for the time of year (end of March) but some mornings there wouldn't have been a sunrise and there were thunderstorms. We would recommend purchasing tickets the day before so you don't have to line up before visiting.
• Phare Circus-we booked premium seats but actually we don't think it would matter very much which seats you booked. It can get very hot in the theatre so take water and light clothing. We were also glad we had eaten before we went as we were not fussed on the menu there. Popcorn and ice cream snacks were good!
• We were so inspired by Baby Elephant Boutique and their care for the environment, their staff and the local community. They had a small store with beautiful things, one being placemats made out of recycled plastic. We needed to see more of this and asked where they were from. You can find the Khmer wonder-women who make these pieces at f/RehashTrash. They are open everyday from 8am-5pm and even hold classes. We wish we had time to take part in one of these!
• Laundry is really cheap to have done if you need it. We paid about $2 for a big bag!
• We wish we had read Mum Pack Travel's blog post on Siem Reap before we left. Check it out here for some awesome tips!

Baby/Toddler on Board:

• Look for accommodation with a pool if you are traveling with children. Baby Elephant had a salt water pool and we used it frequently after a day adventuring. We also were very impressed with the food at the hotel, it was delicious! This was important to us as we did not feel like taking a tired babe out for dinner after a long day. They also had a great kids menu which Lilah loved.
• Siem Reap was not stroller friendly, especially the temples. Lilah likes to walk so she walked for the majority of the time. A carrier would be useful for a younger babe.
• We could find all the food and necessities for a babe in Siem Reap.
• Phare also has a 5pm show two days a week for those who do not want to go to the 8pm show. Just check out their website for shows. 
• Lilah needed her sunglasses on the tuk-tuk as the road was often dusty and her eyes would hurt without them.
• We used the same tuk-tuk driver for most of our stay. We like to do this as you build a nice relationship and also trust for the driver. We value this traveling with a babe.

Five things the photos do not show:

• On our final morning, we decided to book a car to the airport so that we had more room and weren't dusty for our trip to the Maldives. BIG mistake :) Apart from being double the price of a tuk-tuk, there was a massive truck blocking the road to the airport that only scooters and tuk-tuks could get past. We were so close to missing our flight!
• It is hard to photograph just how beautiful the people are. We felt so well looked after and the locals were amazing with Lilah.
• People were just hilarious running to the perfect photo spots for the Angkor Wat sunrise. Sometimes, it seems that the photo is more important than the experience. That is something we thought of often and we made sure to just enjoy ourselves.
• Lilah called the tuk-tuks funny, funny bikes until our final day when she learned tuk-tuk. She absolutely loved this mode of transport and was adorable every ride!
• This stay was sponsored by Baby Elephant Boutique Hotel, but all opinions are our own and we would stay again in a heart beat! We truly believe our stay here enhanced our experience of Siem Reap.

Beijing, China

Beijing is the capital of one of the oldest and most traditional cultures in the world. We can only now appreciate the immense culture and history after having visited.

Fast Five Favourites:

• Great Wall - The reason we wanted to visit Beijing. An incredible place to experience.
• Temple of Heaven - The temple is magnificent and the surrounding park filled with locals going about there day made it even more enjoyable. It's so unique that it didn't feel like we were just visiting another temple.
• Forbidden City - Taking a step back in time to the home of China's many emperors was a fascinating experience. It's so vast it seems like a small city once you are inside the gates. It was especially interesting to visit after seeing the Forbidden City.
• Hutongs and Old Beijing - We loved exploring the Hutongs, just north of the Forbidden City.
• Markets - It felt like a must to experience the markets of the world's largest manufacturer of goods.

Tips:

• We decided to visit the Mutianyu section of the Great Wall. It is about a 2-hour drive from the city which means that it is not as busy as sections closer to the city can be. Our private driver picked us up at 7am and we were able to beat the morning traffic before enjoying the Great Wall with nobody around. It was magical.
• We used a private driver from Miles Meng. They were excellent to deal with and the car was new and comfortable. The driver offered very good service. For a slight premium to a taxi, it was well worth it.
• At the Great Wall, our driver purchased all of our tickets and dropped us near the entrance. We decided to take the cable car up one end and travel down by toboggan on the other end. This route is mostly downhill if you are traveling with young kids. If you're up for a hike you can spend the whole day enjoying one of the great engineering masterpieces. Lilah was actually not allowed on the toboggan as she was too small. We walked back to the entrance and it was enjoyable.
• Many people visit areas of the wall that are not as rebuilt and made for tourists like Mutianyu. When Lilah is older we might revisit the wall with her and perhaps stay a night or two near one of the less known areas of the wall.
• Both the Temple of Heaven and Forbidden City are places you could spend a whole day. There's so much to see and take in. Being with Lilah, we were happy with spending half a day at both places.
• We hired a guide at Forbidden City. This was money well spent. The stories from the time of the emperor are very interesting and bring the place to life. It's best to purchase tickets beforehand. We arrived early and there were no lines but there were a lot of people! The best viewpoint is from the park just outside the city, and you can also visit Tiananmen Square located on the opposite end.
• The Hutongs to the North of the Forbidden city were amazing. We loved experiencing some of the more authentic areas and some of the more modern areas. There are a couple of lakes where you can enjoy a leisurely walk before visiting the Hutongs. We would definitely explore them more next time. There were also Hutongs to the East and South of the Forbidden city that we didn't quite have enough time to see. We had the most amazing hot pot in this area and would recommend trying one.
• We spent 4 nights in Beijing and October was a nice time to visit. The climate was not too hot or cold. We did not have time to visit the summer palace so one more night may be necessary if you wanted to fit this in without rushing too much. We would recommend staying near a subway station.
• The pollution was fine apart from our last day there. The smog was so strong that we didn't spend much time outside at all. It's probably not something you can plan for but we were glad that we got to see the blue skies of Beijing mostly.
• Make sure to try the famous Peking duck and the hot pots!
• Using the subway system is easy and convenient. It's probably a better option than driving as the traffic can be very busy.

Baby on Board:

• We used our stroller mostly everywhere we went and it was fine. A stroller that you can easily fold up would be convenient for the subway.
• On the Great Wall, Lilah walked most of the way. This worked well as we were going predominantly downhill. If you're up for an adventure and a longer hike, a carrier would be a good option.
• Obviously, the pollution is something to keep an eye on with a baby. We were very aware of the levels using the AQICN website. We also had a face mask for each of us just incase.
• The locals may want a photo with your little ones. We didn't mind but there was one time when we asked a lady to leave Lilah alone when she clearly wasn't in the mood to be in her selfie.
• There were many food options. Lilah was able to eat everything that we did.

Five things the photos do not show:

• The smog was crazy on our last day! You could literally see no more than a few meters in front of you. Thankfully it is something that the government is addressing.
• Lilah thought we were in "vagina" the whole time. Luckily no one was listening to her close enough or able to understand her running around the airport before we left in Korea. She did end up being able to say China by the end of the trip. She loved it so much she keeps asking when we are going back.
• The number of people everywhere! It is what you expect with a population in excess of 20 million but it's a different feeling seeing it.
• The internet as we know it is non-existent. Instagram, Facebook, Google, Youtube are all banned. Make sure to purchase a VPN beforehand, and even then it is going to be glitchy.

Xi'an, China

With its close proximity to Beijing via the high-speed train and the Terracotta Army, we couldn't look past Xi'an on our first trip to China.

Fast Five Favorites:

• Terracotta Army- Dubbed the archeological find of the century, it is absolutely mindblowing to see 100s of the perfectly crafted warriors that make up the Terracotta Army (8000 have been recovered to date).

• Mount Huashan- We didn't originally plan to visit the mountains here but a well-traveled friend said that it was one of the most beautiful places he has ever traveled to. We were not disappointed. It is spectacular!

• City Walls- Perhaps one of the most underrated places we have visited. The ancient city wall of Xi'an is a whopping 14 km long. A unique and amazing way to experience the city.

• Muslim Quarter- Xi'an was one endpoint of the historic Silk Road. Muslims have settled here for generations. Their influence can be seen in the architecture and the goods being sold in the markets.

• Street Markets- Visiting on a Saturday night, the markets here were some of the liveliest we have visited. We really enjoyed the atmosphere and the food was delicious.

Tips:

• The Terracotta Army is a premier attraction in China. With over a billion people living in China, it’s important to get to these places early. We were there around 8:30 am and were able to enjoy it before the wave of tour groups (there are a lot!). It was easy to take a taxi and purchase our tickets at the entrance (I can imagine long lines in peak season, or at midday). We went to the main pit first to enjoy it with only a few people around. If you’re there early enough it might be worth visiting the less popular pits and the museum before seeing the most famous and best pit.

• We booked our high-speed train to Beijing prior to our trip with China DIY Travel. They were excellent to deal with and we were comfortable knowing we had our seats booked (it’s not easy to book trains in China over the internet). The small commission was worth it.

• Mount Huashan can be a big day trip so we made it as convenient as possible. We took the subway to Xi’an North station and then purchased a high-speed train ticket to Huashan (about 30 minutes). You can take a shuttle bus to the mountain entrance, but for convenience, we took a local taxi (20 RMB). He also got all of our tickets at the agent near the train station (by the way it’s quite expensive to visit!). A short ride and we were at the entrance. From here we took a bus to the west peak cable car (about 90 minutes) and the cable car to the top (about 30 minutes). From here we hiked to the South Peak, East Peak, and then North Peak (where there’s a shorter cable car ride to the bottom and a 30-minute bus ride back to the entrance). It is a lot steeper beginning from the North Peak if you fancy it! We went back to the train station and we purchased a high-speed train to Xi’an. The trains are frequent so it’s probably best to book when you get there as it’s not easy to know what time you will need it. All up we were on the mountain by 11am and left around 2:30pm. This was enough time to do the route and have lunch/enjoy the views (We did not go to the top of the East peak). Of course, take some water and snacks, but there are places to eat.

• You can even stay on the mountain and watch the sunrise! Or walk the plank along the side of the cliff (get there early for this as the line forms quite quickly).

• The south entrance of the city walls is the most convenient to get to by subway. The entrance is just above the station. From here you can bike the entire wall or leave your bike at one of the other main entrances.

• The street markets at night had a lively vibe and atmosphere. You can also see the Bell and Drum towers lit up. They are the symbols of Xi’an and quite a sight. The beef inside small buns at the markets were amazing!

• It’s easy to get around Xi’an by subway.

• Keep an eye on the air pollution. It’s best to download an app or check a site like AQICN. We did notice it at times and one evening we decided to stay in with Lilah.

• VPN - if you didn’t know China blocks a lot of sites like Google, Instagram, and Facebook. They can be important when traveling for various reasons so it might be a good idea to download a VPN before visiting. We asked our friend who lives there and he recommended ExpressVPN which we found to be good.

• We found 3 nights was okay for us to do what we wanted to do, but wouldn’t have minded another day just to explore. October was also a nice time to visit temperature wise.

• We stayed just out of the city walls at the Sheraton. The best thing was that it was right next to a subway station. 

• Not many places would accept our cards and we found that we needed more cash than we are used to carrying while traveling.

Baby on Board:

• Huashan was a big day trip that we had to think a lot about. Taking the most convenient transport meant it was fine with Lilah. Having a good carry pack is important (we use the Phil and Teds carrier) as well as lots of snacks and water.

• There are no baby bikes on the city walls. We improvised having Lilah in her carrier with Riki biking. It worked fine for us and was a good workout!

• Apart from booking the high-speed train beforehand, everything else we booked on the day.

• We had read on Instagram someone recommending a stroller for the Terracotta warriors and were glad we took ours. It’s quite a walk from the entrance and back through different paths and shops.

• We had masks but we were very lucky with the air pollution during our stay. We would recommend taking one just in case.

Five things the photos do not show:

• Lilah explored a lot in her pajamas. This was the best way to visit the night markets as she could go straight home to bed. She loved it as she’s not often out at night.

• The cliffside hiking on Mount Huashan was something else! Some of the paths are along sheer drop-offs and it’s known as the scariest hike in the world. It’s actually fine if you stay on the intended routes and we never felt unsafe with Lilah. We were feeling a little nervous being up that high in the cable car.

• Our taxi driver to the Terracotta Warriors dropped us at a point quite a distance from the main entrance as he was trying to get some commission from a friend who was a guide. It would be fair to say we were pretty annoyed at having to walk back to the entrance with Lilah. 

• When we arrived at the city entrances, we realized we did not have enough cash to purchase entry tickets. Riki went to find an ATM and by the time he got back, they had decided to close that entrance for some time (exact time could not be communicated). We needed to walk 25 minutes to the next entrance and it was stressful because we were worried we would be too late to enter or rent bikes. We were happy to get on our bikes!

• The look on people's faces was hilarious as Riki rode past on the city walls with Lilah on his back in the carrier. We tried to video their reactions but it was too tricky and Sonita was a hazard trying to capture while biking!